When I first moved to Virginia back in 1974, my first exposure to “Southern Tradition” was on a couple consecutive New Year’s Days. When I ran into friends, their first question was always “Did you have your black-eyed peas yet?” Since, at the time, I didn’t know Black-Eyed Peas from Black-Eyed Susans, I would say “no?” and usually be dragged into the kitchen for a bowl of beans, and told “It’s for good luck in the New Year.”
I had to do some research.
It turns out that this tradition goes back to the Civil War. Back in those days, black-eyed peas were planted as cheap, low-grade animal fodder. After years of continuing conflict, just about everyone in the South, whether they started out rich or poor, black or white or red, was starving, due to having 2 separate armies actively foraging for food. The meat, farm animals, vegetables, corn, oats, wheat and hay got confiscated “for The Cause”, whichever Cause it happened to be that particular day.
By sheer luck and coincidence, the Black-Eyed Peas frequently didn’t get taken, because Union foragers didn’t know what they were, and Confederate officers considered them not good enough for Army mules (though Confederate soldiers DID eat them) .
So, why good luck? Because when the weather is getting cold, and there is no “real” food left on the farm, and you have some beans that, 10 years ago were only hog-feed, and, just maybe, a smoked pig foot that got left hanging in the smokehouse, you were ALREADY starting off the New Year “lucky”.
Enough History, let’s cook something delicious that’s “Good Luck”:
Hoppin’ John
Start with a pound or 2 of dry Black-eyed Peas. Soak overnight in warm water. Keep adding more water, they’ll suck up a lot. In the morning, pour off the water, dump your beans into a big pot/Dutch Oven, add a minced onion (or 2) and a smoked pork hock (A friend who keeps Kosher uses a smoked turkey leg – also delicious). Cover with half water/half chicken broth (or just water) and bring to a simmer. Usually takes about 1-2 hours until beans are cooked. ( A crockpot works great for this BTW). Do the “5 Bean test”. Stir it up, pick out 5 beans at random and bite them. When all 5 are tender, it’s all cooked. Remove from heat. Shred up the meat from the hamhock and stir it into your beans.
Chop up somewhere between 1/2 pound -500 pounds of bacon :). Render it at low heat until the bacon gets a little crispy. Remove Bacon and add to beans. Sautee some chopped onions, chopped celery, minced garlic and green bell peppers in the bacon fat until just softened, remove and add to your beans. (shredded cabbage is NOT traditional, but dang good, too)
Mix everything together, add black pepper (you probably already have enough salt – taste it) and hot sauce, to taste. Add more chicken stock if it’s dry. “Bean Juice” is a big Southern favorite as well.
My business partner and I frequently do his family’s Polish-based version called “Hoppin’ Joshu’ ” – no pork hock, less bacon, red and green bell peppers and a LOT of seared kielbasa sausage – wonderful stuff – we never have leftovers.
Make a batch, just for fun. We can’t all sit at the same table on New Year’s Day, but maybe we can share a dish, anyway.
While you’re at it, package up some dried Black-Eyed Peas in your supply-pantry. You never know when you might want some extra “Good Luck”.
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